28 May 2008

The “Top End”































From the first few kms that we left Mareeba the vegetation started to change from green farmlands to arid Savannah. We started heading west and came to a place called Undara Lava Tubes. A huge shield volcano had spewed lava for many years and it had flowed for hundreds of kms towards the sea. As the outer crusts cooled the liquid lava continued to flow through the tunnels until the volcano gradually emptied...leaving huge tunnels stretching for hundreds of kilometres. These lava tubes are particularly well preserved and are now a national park and preserved area. We camped there for the night and in the morning took a tour around these amazing structures...like huge cathedrals these tunnel walls show amazing colours and the level of lava as it flowed. Where the roof had fallen into the tunnels a rainforest had sprung up in the micro climate. We saw bats, rare wallaby’s, and many birds. Then onwards into the very arid Queensland interior where the road deteriorated into a single strip of bad tar and huge road trains came barrelling towards us every now and then towing up to 5 trailers and had 120 wheels! You just get off the road completely and hope!
We travelled to a little fishing village way up on the Gulf of Carpentaria called Karumba..very isolated and wild. The Normanton river flowed into the sea there and the biggest croc on record was caught in this river...”Kris” was 28 and half feet. A replica had been cast and to stand next to it was awesome. While at Karumba Paul and I did a fishing trip and he caught a large Queen fish and several large Salmon..all excellent eating! They gave a nice fight and he was thrilled...we filleted them and now have our freezer full of fish.
Now our trip through the Outback started in earnest. Once again we could not comprehend the size of this country. What looked like a reasonable trip from Cairns to the Darwin was 2 and half thousand kms odd and took us a 7 days of driving all day and just sleeping in little roadhouse parks overnight...the heat was oppressive. The country became more and more arid, and petrol more and more expensive until we paid nearly $2.00 per litre. We crossed the border into the Territory which is like the Ozzie Wild West. We turned north up the Stuart Highway( The Track as they call it here ) to Darwin and still had to stop a few times enroute.
One of the stops was at a little historic pub which dates back to the original homestead of 1830 called Daly Waters..its airstrip had been used extensively in the WW11 but otherwise it was in the middle of nothingness. When we drove into the (awful) caravan park we could not understand why it was so full. But the pub had oodles of character..Memorabilia from years of tourists’ decorated the walls...bank notes, T shirts, bras, ancient artefacts. There were amusing slogans and signs all over the place and it looked like it had come straight out of Crocodile Dundee. That night a fairly well known country and western singer entertained the crowd with singing and bush poetry and jokes until 10.00 pm and the crowd was swinging..what a surprise! The man was a comic and he had two funny looking chooks (chickens) sitting next to him while he played which he called his Baby Wedge tail Eagles...and they were part of the act.
We stopped at some thermal pools along the way which were set in a wonderful tropical oasis of palms and ferns..the pools were crystal clear and very pleasantly done...and free! From there to the Katherine Gorge. The Katherine River has eroded a huge gorge over the centuries and is now a very scenic national park. During the wet season it was a raging torrent of 13 meters higher than the normal river flowing half way up the walls of the gorge. During the dry it was a series of gorges connected by rapids. We took a boat ride up to the fourth gorge and it was spectacular to see the sheer red cliffs on both sides of the boats rise up with bands of coloured rock faces. We saw two crocs sunning themselves, and walked to a lovely waterfall and pool with water lilies where people swam.
Before we got to Darwin we stopped over to see the Litchfield National Park. Within this park were gorges and breathtaking waterfalls, and clear cool natural pools with water slides. The country was arid but the vegetation surrounding the waterfalls was a tropical oasis. There were also giant termite mounds, some 3 meters or more, as well as the very clever Magnetic Termite mounds where the termites build the towers exactly north to south to make the most use of the sun and shade. After a couple of days there, we left for the Darwin, the most northerly point of our journey and the Capital of the Northern Territory.

17 May 2008

The Tropical North of Queensland..Above the clouds and below the water!






















We stayed at Airlie Beach for a full week because it was an attractive park with huge tropical trees, amazing bird life, and quite reasonably priced. We did some admin things like doctor checkups (Skin and Mole!), Haircuts and Mail drops. The drive further up the coast saw the vegetation getting more and more tropical..the sugar cane fields, banana plantations etc reminded us that we were really up the north of the country. The constant humidity is draining, and the bush looks not only thick and lush but quite threatening and prickly in a way. Rivers now routinely have “beware of the crocodiles” signs, and the sea is dangerous because of the lethal Jellyfish. We passed the huge and interesting Hinchinbrook Island which is close to the coastal delta and has high mountains, thick forests and lots of crocs! Mission Beach was postcard perfect and we had a park right on the beach for only $15.00 per night. It is crescent shaped, lined with coconut palms and looking over the turquoise water with islands dotted in the bays. Only thing was..you can’t swim there in summer cos of the box jellyfish....bummer! The wind started blowing steadily and stayed that way the whole time we were in Q...so much so that we did not think that a trip to the Great Barrier Reef was an option since it is a 2 hour fast cat trip and in the 25 and more knot winds not only would that be unpleasant but we would not see much. So each place we went to with the intention of going to a coral cay never happened so we moved on.
From Mission Beach we stopped at a place called Paronella Park..an amazing and hard to describe place. A Spanish man had come to Oz early last century and decided to build a castle to remind him of home. Over the years he built this amazing castle with gardens and features all set around this wonderful waterfall...the castle became the hub of the areas recreation with dance hall, movies, tennis courts, playgrounds, swimming holes and much more..acres of this fantastic fantasy which he had personally moulded hundreds of pots, railing supports and fountains.. Unfortunately the area is in a cyclone belt, and after two devastating cyclones he died and the family let it go to ruin. They have now turned it back into a wonderful attraction with night tours lighting up the lush botanical gardens and ruined castles, and interesting birds, butterflies and botanical species. The sheer scope of this man’s work is unbelievable..we really enjoyed it.
From there we travelled to the Atherton Tablelands where we stayed with a friend who had a coffee/banana/pawpaw farm overlooking the scenic mountains of the Great Dividing Range. It was great not having to cart the caravan up and down the passes to see all the sights..and there were many sights to see in that area. In Kuranda there is the historical railway that goes up the mountains, hewn by hand with tunnels raising from sea level to 750 meters to the top and going over the gorge and right next to a waterfall which literally flows past the train line. Then to descend back to the valley there is a 7.5 km cable way which soars over the gorge and rainforest, 60 meters in the air and with views of the whole coast...all with stops and guides. We managed a trip to Green Island which is a coral cay only an hour out of Cairns even tho it was windy and choppy. It was beautiful and lush but the snorkelling was not that great. We also visited the World Heritage Listed Daintree Rainforest area which is the last remaining untouched rainforest in the world with the area dating back to pre Gondwala land...very beautiful. Just what one pictures in a rainforest..vines, buttress trees, ferns. From there to the tip of the forest..Cape Tribulation, and also Cooktown..way up on the York Peninsula. One of the highlights of the stay was a complimentary Balloon trip! We got up at 4 am in the morning and were treated to seeing these giant balloons being filled with gas and light, and then being one of six balloons to soar into the air over the Mareeba Tablelands seeing the most spectacular sunrise over the mountains. It is really something to glide over the farmlands and see kangaroos hopping away below...then onto a champagne breakfast!
We truly loved this part of Queensland for its scenery and loads of wonderful things to see and do. However I would not want to be doing it in the “wet” season as the humidity was high even in the ‘dry”.
Now we start the long trek across the Gulf and Savannah way as we start going across the “Top End”....REAL OUTBACK!!!
More wildlife spotting!
We have seen a Cassowary in the wild..large flightless bird with blue neck..quite aggressive.
An Amathystine Python ..14 feet, yellow and black markings
Feral Pig
Gorgeous butterflies including the radiant blue Ulyssis Butterfly
Rare Mareeba Rock Wallaby
Photos:
Paul in the Balloon with sunset over Mareeba
Mission Beach sundowners
Paranella Park ..part of the castle grounds
Paul on Beach of Green Island..Great Barrier Reef off Cairns
View taken in Skyrail Cable car showing gorge and railway in distanceGiant Curtain Fig in Daintree Rainforest