The Kimberley region of WA is the most northerly, most isolated and most remote in West Australia. We had been dreading going there because we don’t like deserts, hot weather or arid vegetation...Paul and I are cool, lush forest types! So we started the next phase of the journey with some trepidation. But its huge skies and dramatic scenery tugs at the heart strings and we found that we actually loved it in a strange and primitive way. Most of the region is inaccessible, harsh, and many of the billabongs, rivers and bays have never seen a boat. The coast line is inaccessible except by plane or large boats, the tides huge and dramatic, and it is almost an unexplored frontier. The Outback is known as the red heart of Australia, and it is easy to see why because the soil is crimson/maroon and glows in the brilliant sunlight. The sunsets are breathtaking.
The first stop in WA was Lake Argyle where the huge Ord River is damned so that crops can be grown in otherwise arid country, and water and Hydro can help the north of Australia to open up. It was a massive undertaking building this dam, and it now holds up to 55 times more water than the Sydney Harbour. The country reminded us of Kariba, but the difference is that dramatic red cliffs frame the dam and drop dramatically into the blue water. It is huge, but only a small part accessible unless you have a boat or take a tour. We stayed a couple of days as it was peaceful and had great bird life, but then left to stay in the nearby town of Kununurra. There we camped on the edge of a billabong covered in water lilies, with freshwater crocs swimming around under the reeds.
Next on the journey took us to the most northerly town in WA, Wyndham. On a huge delta where five massive rivers drain into an even larger estuary it becomes a wide Sound. The town is small and rundown with a harbour and the huge tidal river is surrounded by mangroves and tidal mudflats which extend for many kms. Our first thought was...one night and we are out of here! There was a small jetty, a magnificent lookout where you looked down on the 5 rivers that drained into the delta..and not much else. But as luck would have it we met a real old character in the caravan park..a legend in the area. He and his wife knew the history of the area and the flora and fauna, and were its best ambassadors. He also knew all the best fishing spots around, and when he heard it was Paul’s birthday he offered to take us to a secret billabong. We set off with two other 4x4 across the mud flats with clouds of red dust billowing behind us, then onto a badly rutted track lined with mangroves and boab trees. Our first stop was at a muddy hole where he threw his cast net into the shallows a few times and caught some small mullets which he kept alive in an aerated bucket. Then off to another spot on the King River where there was another muddy billabong. I thought..”you must be joking; there are no fish in this shallow, muddy hole!” But he said calmly..”the tide will be in soon.” We were about 15 kms from the coast and so again I looked incredulously at him..what tide? However, true to his word there was a noise and a small tidal wave came roaring through the river bed and the next thing the river was a few meters higher and lapping at the banks! We all threw our lines in and waited. Paul caught a Barramundi but it got away. Our new friend caught a nice one, and it was very exciting, muddy work. Between us all we had a marvellous dinner of fresh Barramundi and chips..what a birthday! Paul also caught a small shark off the jetty which we cut up for bait and some tasty dinners. We stayed longer than we thought we would, and drove off with many waves and exchanging addresses.
We stopped overnight at a little place called Fitzroy Crossing, which, surprisingly enough, is at a bridge crossing the mighty Fitzroy River. Near the town is a gorge which has been eroded out of the ancient limestone beds formed when an ancient Coral Reef 350 million years ago was raised out of the sea bed..many fossils are found in these beds. However it is the Gorge that is interesting. The river runs through during the dry season at a rate that would fill Sydney Harbour in 5 hours. But during the Wet season it is at least 6 meters higher and rages as a torrent down the narrow chasm. We took a boat ride and evidence of the flood line was easily seen on the walls of the gorge. The walls were eroded limestone with interesting shapes and colours in the high sheer cliffs, and the bird life and crocs we saw were an added bonus.
Next stop was another little town further down the inaccessible coast called Derby. Once again we stood on a jetty that had pylons 3 stories high because the tides were a staggering 11 meters. The low tide showed mud flats as far as the eye could see, the high tide had water lapping the top of the jetty and showing only the top of the mangrove trees. We dropped some crab nets and caught 3 huge “mud crabs” which are delicious eating and have claws as big as golf balls. Tricky getting them into the bucket cos they are aggressive and go for unwary toes with razor sharp pincers which can cut through a can! That night we dined on chilli crab and wine. We also went to a typical outback fun night where they had “Crab Racing”. Mud crabs were put into a roped off ring and bets were taken on the various crabs ability to run, claws up and angry, to the edge of the ring. All participants were eaten at the end of the evening and much beer was consumed during the various races! The Boab tree is common in Derby and the sunsets were marvellous.
Finally we drove into Broome..the jewel of the Kimberley. This small town is so popular in the cooler months that its population multiplies 3 times and you have to book a year in advance. We took a chance and managed to get 3 days in one of the many caravan parks at an exorbitant price. But I must admit that there is a romantic holiday atmosphere in the place and it is gorgeous. We stayed near the famous Cable Beach (voted as the 5 th best beach in the world) and it is wonderful. Palm trees, pure white sand stretching 22 kms, and azure sea...and a balmy climate to watch the famous sunsets. A former Pearl Diving town it has a long history, and is an interesting little place with a thriving Arty community. There is also a huge tidal variance here and the impressive jetty with pylons 3 stories from the sea in low tide always have many hopeful fishermen leaning over the dizzying rail trying for the big one.
We took some photos at sunset one evening at some weird shaped rocky cliffs overlooking the beach..they literally glowed! Another night we watched the moon rise over the mudflats and witnessed a remarkable phenomenon known as the “Staircase to the Moon” because the mudflats and reflections look like a heavenly staircase..very lovely. Regrettably we packed to go to our next destination south of Broome on the impressive 80 Mile Beach.
Photos: Lake Argyle at sunset
Lookout at Wyndham showing the huge delta and 5 rivers flowing
Paul caught a shark
Geikie Gorge on the Fitzroy River.
Our Mud Crabs
Sunset at the point in Broome
Cable Beach with some tourists on a camel ride
Stairway to the moon
The first stop in WA was Lake Argyle where the huge Ord River is damned so that crops can be grown in otherwise arid country, and water and Hydro can help the north of Australia to open up. It was a massive undertaking building this dam, and it now holds up to 55 times more water than the Sydney Harbour. The country reminded us of Kariba, but the difference is that dramatic red cliffs frame the dam and drop dramatically into the blue water. It is huge, but only a small part accessible unless you have a boat or take a tour. We stayed a couple of days as it was peaceful and had great bird life, but then left to stay in the nearby town of Kununurra. There we camped on the edge of a billabong covered in water lilies, with freshwater crocs swimming around under the reeds.
Next on the journey took us to the most northerly town in WA, Wyndham. On a huge delta where five massive rivers drain into an even larger estuary it becomes a wide Sound. The town is small and rundown with a harbour and the huge tidal river is surrounded by mangroves and tidal mudflats which extend for many kms. Our first thought was...one night and we are out of here! There was a small jetty, a magnificent lookout where you looked down on the 5 rivers that drained into the delta..and not much else. But as luck would have it we met a real old character in the caravan park..a legend in the area. He and his wife knew the history of the area and the flora and fauna, and were its best ambassadors. He also knew all the best fishing spots around, and when he heard it was Paul’s birthday he offered to take us to a secret billabong. We set off with two other 4x4 across the mud flats with clouds of red dust billowing behind us, then onto a badly rutted track lined with mangroves and boab trees. Our first stop was at a muddy hole where he threw his cast net into the shallows a few times and caught some small mullets which he kept alive in an aerated bucket. Then off to another spot on the King River where there was another muddy billabong. I thought..”you must be joking; there are no fish in this shallow, muddy hole!” But he said calmly..”the tide will be in soon.” We were about 15 kms from the coast and so again I looked incredulously at him..what tide? However, true to his word there was a noise and a small tidal wave came roaring through the river bed and the next thing the river was a few meters higher and lapping at the banks! We all threw our lines in and waited. Paul caught a Barramundi but it got away. Our new friend caught a nice one, and it was very exciting, muddy work. Between us all we had a marvellous dinner of fresh Barramundi and chips..what a birthday! Paul also caught a small shark off the jetty which we cut up for bait and some tasty dinners. We stayed longer than we thought we would, and drove off with many waves and exchanging addresses.
We stopped overnight at a little place called Fitzroy Crossing, which, surprisingly enough, is at a bridge crossing the mighty Fitzroy River. Near the town is a gorge which has been eroded out of the ancient limestone beds formed when an ancient Coral Reef 350 million years ago was raised out of the sea bed..many fossils are found in these beds. However it is the Gorge that is interesting. The river runs through during the dry season at a rate that would fill Sydney Harbour in 5 hours. But during the Wet season it is at least 6 meters higher and rages as a torrent down the narrow chasm. We took a boat ride and evidence of the flood line was easily seen on the walls of the gorge. The walls were eroded limestone with interesting shapes and colours in the high sheer cliffs, and the bird life and crocs we saw were an added bonus.
Next stop was another little town further down the inaccessible coast called Derby. Once again we stood on a jetty that had pylons 3 stories high because the tides were a staggering 11 meters. The low tide showed mud flats as far as the eye could see, the high tide had water lapping the top of the jetty and showing only the top of the mangrove trees. We dropped some crab nets and caught 3 huge “mud crabs” which are delicious eating and have claws as big as golf balls. Tricky getting them into the bucket cos they are aggressive and go for unwary toes with razor sharp pincers which can cut through a can! That night we dined on chilli crab and wine. We also went to a typical outback fun night where they had “Crab Racing”. Mud crabs were put into a roped off ring and bets were taken on the various crabs ability to run, claws up and angry, to the edge of the ring. All participants were eaten at the end of the evening and much beer was consumed during the various races! The Boab tree is common in Derby and the sunsets were marvellous.
Finally we drove into Broome..the jewel of the Kimberley. This small town is so popular in the cooler months that its population multiplies 3 times and you have to book a year in advance. We took a chance and managed to get 3 days in one of the many caravan parks at an exorbitant price. But I must admit that there is a romantic holiday atmosphere in the place and it is gorgeous. We stayed near the famous Cable Beach (voted as the 5 th best beach in the world) and it is wonderful. Palm trees, pure white sand stretching 22 kms, and azure sea...and a balmy climate to watch the famous sunsets. A former Pearl Diving town it has a long history, and is an interesting little place with a thriving Arty community. There is also a huge tidal variance here and the impressive jetty with pylons 3 stories from the sea in low tide always have many hopeful fishermen leaning over the dizzying rail trying for the big one.
We took some photos at sunset one evening at some weird shaped rocky cliffs overlooking the beach..they literally glowed! Another night we watched the moon rise over the mudflats and witnessed a remarkable phenomenon known as the “Staircase to the Moon” because the mudflats and reflections look like a heavenly staircase..very lovely. Regrettably we packed to go to our next destination south of Broome on the impressive 80 Mile Beach.
Photos: Lake Argyle at sunset
Lookout at Wyndham showing the huge delta and 5 rivers flowing
Paul caught a shark
Geikie Gorge on the Fitzroy River.
Our Mud Crabs
Sunset at the point in Broome
Cable Beach with some tourists on a camel ride
Stairway to the moon
2 comments:
Wow guys, what an awesome story, it was too exciting to leave the computer before finishing reading.
Thanks so much for putting the captions to the photos at the bottom of your entry. Please if you ever get time could you put the captions at the bottom of your other posts. We've printed out about 70 of the photos really really tinily (spell?) and tried to stick them all around our map of Australia on the wall, but I am having trouble searching through the blogs and trying to find them all, to then pinpoint them on the map. Probably more time consuming than impossible. If you don't get time to add in the photo subjects on your blog, we'll just have to bug your brains when you get back.
Love
Di.
You won't be able to stay still when you eventually get back home. Nice to see you guys living life to the full.
Love
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